Comments regarding Proposed Revision of American Viticultural Area Regulations
(2006-325R) as posted in Notice No. 78. Document No. TTB-2007-0068-0001
The stated mission of the TTB's American Viticulture Area program is to allow
vintners to better describe the origin of their wines and to allow consumers to
better identify wines they may purchase. The percentage of the area involved in
viticulture activity does not help the vintner nor the consumer in this endeavor.
The factors that influence the taste of the wine include variety of grape, climate
(temperatures, rainfall, wind, fog etc.), soils, geology, physical features, elevation,
latitude, sun aspect and local styles of wine making. Variety and style of wine
making are not under the purview of the TTB but the other factors are the
quinsessential requirements for establishing an American Viticulture Area. Those
factors are determined by natural geographic features and may include a small
area or more than a million acres of relatively similar climate, soils, elevation,
physical features and geology that based on scientific observatons cannot be
reasonable divided into smaller zones. Natural geographic features come in
different sizes as does the number of acres under vine (sample vineyard acreage in
an AVA):
1. 10 acres / 15,500 acre area
2. 1500 acres / 5.7 million acres
3. 100 acres / 450,000 acres
All three have the same percentage ratio: .02% (that is less than 1 %)
Even though geographic features come in varying sizes, the rate at which growers
develop vineyards at these pioneering stages follow similar size stages of growth,
such as after the first ten years they are in the 10 to 100 acre range. Growers and
vintners in extra large natural geographic features (valley or basin) would be
unfairly burdened by the percentage rule even though they are well established,
have contributed significantly to the local marketplace and wish to give recognition
to the uniqueness of the growing conditions. The AVA does this with integrity. For
example, we know of successful wine grape growers who have been in the
marketplace each for about 10 years and each located in their own separate and
unique growing condtions dictated by two different geological features. One just
happens to be fifty times larger than the other. It would be an unfair burden for the
growers in the larger area to be forced, by law and the TTB's proposed percentage
rule, to wait decades to submit a petition to establish an AVA.
The presence of one or one hundred wine grape growers in a given geographic area
also does not determine the parameters that define the quality and flavor of the
wine as is the stated goal of the AVA Program. Every wine growing area had to
have had a pioneer who was willing to try growing and vinifying grapes. Two or
three wine grape growers in a unique growing area may only represent a minute
percentage of the land in the area but still produce a unique product worthy of
recognition and distinction of an AVA. Pioneer growers need momentum at this
early stage of development in an area or region. This recognition can help the
consumer and may actually encourage other growers to consider the area and
thus futher enhance the economy of the area while still only involving a statistically
insignificant portion of the geographical area which has the same climate, soils,
elevation and topography.
The American Viticulture Area program is still in its infancy when compared to
other wine growing regions of the world. The earliest AVAs (from the 1980s) were
often entire states, regions or counties and although they did identify a place,
these areas were often so extremely diverse in climate, soils, geology, topography
etc. that they did not help the vintner nor consumer identify the wine qualities. The
next stage of development has been to create smaller AVAs that do help both
vintner and consumer because now the petitions identify the uniqueness of a
growing area, how it differs from the surrounding area and the viticultural
significance of those features.
The AVA process and the TTB Rule System is at a historic junction where the
American wine industry is competing globally at a time when a huge portion of the
world wide wines are indistinguishable from one another. In the wine world the
reaction to this homogeneity has been to promote the origin of the wine and it's
effect on it's character, the very definition of an AVA.
To have a "specified percentage of the land mass involved in viticulture activities"
could become a statistical and surveying nightmare (to say nothing of percent of
wine grown because of vine density). A recent billboard in Napa Valley declared
that "6% of Napa was planted to wine grapes". If only 6% of Napa is in wine grape
production, then how does one measure the percentage of viticulture activity in
other areas where vineyards are less common but the wine is still favorably receive
because of the unique flavor due to its terroir?
One possible outcome of requiring a "percentage" rule would be a proliferation of
AVA petitions for single vineyards or very small areas in order to have a
measurable percentage in "viticulture activity". This currently is covered
by "designated vineyard" wine on the labels.
The term "viticulture activity" is vague. Is "viticulture activity" limited to vineyards
and wineries or does it also include grapevine nurseries, wine tasting rooms,
shops selling wine and wine related mementos, restaurants that serve wine or any
business that includes "wine, wine names (Pinot) or vintage" in it's title (i.e.
Vintage Real Estate)?
We know that the TTB agents who review AVA petitions spend a considerable
amount of time and effort in the process and we realize that most government
agencies must be accountable for their time and use of manpower. Perhaps the
TTB could take a lesson from other government agencies that review applications
from the public (Patent and Tradmark Office - PTO), which charges a FEE for each
application and develop a FEE schedule. That FEE could be a flat rate or better
yet how many hours required to review, edit and prepare a petition summary for
publication in the Federal Register. As AVA authors, we are often asked by area
growers, who want to learn the TTB process "how much does TTB charge to
review a petition?". They all expect there to be a FEE.
An AVA desgination on a wine label should help the vintner and the consumer
identify a place of special character and know that it is based on science - not the
number of growers or percentage of acres in a geographically unique area.
Thank you for considering these issues.
Sincerely,
Ralph & Marie Carter
Comment from Carter, Ralph and Marie
This is comment on Proposed Rule
Notice No. 78 -- Proposed Revision of American Viticultural Area Regulations
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